Leather types and terminology – a small glossary

Basic terms

The grain side is the smooth, grained surface of the leather that faces the hair side. The flesh side is the rough reverse. Thick leather, such as cowhide, is split horizontally into several layers: the upper layer is then called grain split, the lower layer flesh split. The less stable flesh split is generally called split leather.

Hide: leather merchants use this term for all skins from medium-sized animals such as calves, sheep or goats. Hair-on clothing refers to garments where the hair remains on the leather.

Skin: term for the skin of large animals such as cattle, buffalo or pigs.

Rawhide is slaughtered animal skin that has been removed without treatment. Leather is the finished product of the tannery. Only processed hides that have not been dissolved, ground up and processed into sheets with binding agents may be called leather. If a layer thicker than 0.15 mm has been applied, the material must be declared as coated leather. If the coating exceeds one third of the total thickness, it may no longer be described as leather at all.

Types of leather

Smooth leather refers to all types of leather with the grain side facing outwards, regardless of the prominence of the natural grain. Calf leather has a very flat grain, crocodile leather a very pronounced one. Both are smooth leather.

Nappa leather is a general term for unsanded smooth leather with the grain side facing outwards. Originally, the term referred to buttery-soft glove leather; today it is used as a synonym for smooth leather.

Aniline leather is open-pore smooth leather without a pigment layer. A drop of water rubbed into the surface is absorbed by the leather and darkens it briefly. Aniline leather is more sensitive than pigmented leather and shows moisture immediately.

Suede leather is the collective term for leather with a roughened surface. Nubuck and velour are the best-known forms.

Nubuck leather is smooth leather sanded on the grain side. Sanding creates a velvety, short-haired surface. Nubuck is mainly made from cowhide.

Velour leather is the reverse of smooth leather or both sides of a flesh split. Suede is another term for it.

Shearling is sheep or lambskin sanded on the outside, with the wool side worn on the inside.

Chamois leather is produced by tanning with train oil or fish oil. It is known as window leather or traditional costume leather. For traditional costume leather, the yellowish leather is generally given a greenish or brownish surface colour.

Game leather is the collective term for leather from wild animals such as deer, roe deer and moose. However, the term is also frequently used as a synonym for suede leather.

Leather-textile mix refers to clothing in which leather is combined with fabric on the outside.

Artificial leather is labelled as “Kunstleder”, “Skai”, “Pelliccia artificiale” or “Piel artificial”, and often also as “polyamide” or “polyester”. Faux fur appears as “Artificial fur” or “Fourrure artificielle”.

Tanning methods

The most important tanning methods are chrome tanning (almost all garment leather and shoe upper leather), vegetable tanning (belts, sole leather, riding leather), synthetic tanning and oil tanning (window leather, traditional costume leather). Tanning methods are often combined.

Through-dyed leather is coloured after tanning in an aniline dye bath; the dye penetrates right through. Coloured suede leather and open-pore smooth leather are always dyed in this way.

Many smooth leathers also receive an opaque colour layer based on pigments and binders, known as top dyeing, finishing or pigmentation. This makes the leather more durable and resistant to stains. Motorcycle leather, many casual jackets, shoes and bags have this layer.

On top comes the top coat, a type of clear lacquer that protects the colour layer against abrasion and colour transfer and determines the gloss level.

Animal species used for leather clothing

The most common animal species are cattle, lamb, goat and pig, all animals primarily bred for meat production.

Cowhide is heavier and thicker, but very robust. Typical for motorcycle suits and protective clothing.

Lamb leather is generally processed as soft smooth leather for casual jackets, skirts or leather trousers.

Goat leather is often used as goat velour for jackets, skirts or trousers.

Pigskin is found mainly in inexpensive clothing, usually as suede leather. It is generally less durable and supple than goat or lamb leather.

Practical quick test: aniline or pigmented leather?

Rub a small drop of water into a concealed area: is it absorbed and does it darken the leather briefly? Aniline or open-pore leather is more sensitive and requires gentle products. Does it bead up? Pigmented leather is more robust and tolerates normal cleaners.